Screamer Rebuild

Good Card, works with ¿Vista OK.  I'm also running PCLINUX2007 and it runs pretty slick too. 

I have a growing contempt for ATI GPU's. Every since AMD bought out ATI, the overall quality of drivers, stability and hardware quality has gone down hill.

I'll shit can the Saitek keyboard and my current 9600 ATI card.  No more ATI, I've had enough!

Saitek keyboards don't last long!!

Inside looks good. I still need to re-wire the UV lights.

Has an odd squeal when It starts. WTF?

Part of the squeal was an alarm on the modular drive racks. The power supply still lets out a little squeal.

I'll do the custom wiring, when I can concentrate.

I like the "finger choppers", rear case fans.

No top fans, just filters.

Add a resister, heat shrink and wire to switch bay.

Painted with wrinkle black. 

Assembled to the pump.

I have some rubber feet for the bottom. As soon as I find where I put them.

This also gave me the clearance need for my peltier add-on for the tank, bottom. 

Nothing fancy, just something to add height to the pump.  Pumps are rated by height, angle and length of tubing though which it will push fluid. 

Ready to drill holes for pump and to assemble plate to tubing.

Reads 81.5° Fahrenheit with fluid running for about 30 minutes.  With no fans running, this renders the heat sinks ineffective.

How much does pumping raise the temperature of the fluid, without the processor heat?

Answer is about 8° to 9° F

So thermal energy is transferred from the pump motor, to the fluid.  This is not a lot but every little bit adds up.  With the case completed with fans running, this cool things down a bit.

Reads 73.0° Fahrenheit with pump off for about 30 minutes.

 My refugee meat thermometer was too in-accurate and hard to read.

People said I was wasting time, placing heat-sinks on the pump.  Well it's not much but computer case-mods are like building race cars, everything counts!

I test the setup with NO Hose Clamps and it must pass this test before I apply hose clamps and start adding computer components. 

I moved this to the dining room to finish testing, made supper and watched Myth-Busters and Smash Lab on TV.

I put some pot scrubbers in the tank  temporarily to take out some weird little white floaters. Made a good filter.  It's clean now and I've removed the scrubbers.

Bubbles means a possible air leak or the mix has too much water.  Here the tank was not screwed down all the way.  I discovered this with an air duster. It would chase the fluid around  that is caught in the threads.

Another thing to watch out for is over filling the tank.  Fluids are un-compressible, but still can expand and contract.  Fluids can change volume with ease.   So if you over fill, you can force a leak.

I'm in the process of building the pump stand now.  I'm adding a small 20mm peltier module under the tank for extra cooling power. It's only 3 volt so I'll add a resistor.  I'll hook up all this crap and cover it with heat shrink.  Then I'll hide the wiring inside the pump stand.

This will be controlled with a switch. I'm short some thermal epoxy and I have to finish the pump stand.

This is another old project, resurrected for this re-build. 

I use 5/8"-3/8" heavy wall tubing with 1/2" fittings.  I've never had a leak with this setup and flow rates are fine.

I'm short 1 acorn nut and need to cut off the screws. I also need to make a pump stand to raise the pump a bit.

Pumps are rated by how much and how high it will pump fluid so every inch counts. 

I hate dust bunnies in my radiators.

Odd color but I like a fan with "teeth".

Made specifically for restrictive air-flow like radiators and filters.  Comes with 2 extra tails with resisters but it's very quiet anyway so I'll just wire it up straight.

Link to frozen.cpu

I used hemostats to hold a nut in position then just turn the all-thread till it takes hold.

All thread is just threaded screw stock with no head.

I had some aquarium thermometers stuck on there.  This got it warm enough to remove the adhesive.

(old photo)

I kept adding fresh water, running, repeat. Some vinegar would have helped but I was out. 

At least it did not attack the Tygon Tubing.

These required drilling holes for the mounting screws.  I'm trying to use up leftovers on this project too.

I'm glad I covered the case in tape. Aluminum dust and shavings just get everywhere.

 It takes guts to whack a hole in a perfectly good and expensive anodized case.

Jig Saws can turn tight but not real tight turns.

Since I live in a duplex, I have to "time" when I use my jig-saw. I had a "Snow Day" so It's whacked now.

These are nothing air blocking, dust catchers.

I stop before the cut is finished and tape the scrap down so the saw does not take off with the scrap.

 I've started with tape & bubble wrap to protect the parts sticking out from the case.  I'm getting ready for some JIG-SAW work.

I'm cutting out the cheesy factory fan grills. I was going to remove the top, cut the 120mm blow-hole the re-attach it.  I decided against this and will just do my cuts with the top in place.

This has been a great radiator. Fan goes on the case 1st, then the radiator.  The hoses will be facing to the window.

Noctua NF-P12 120mm x 25mm Fan - 54.3 CFM at 19 dBA

Made for restrictive air flow situations like radiators and filters.

ripped, stripped and waiting for parts.

I'll cut my own 120mm blow hole for my black ice 120mm radiator.

A perfect case for my old tired Barton Core.

Intakes above, exhaust fans below. 

Wide open finger choppers

I don't want a bunch lighted case fans. I'm keeping the case clean looking.

The 2 fans holes above the power supply is a mystery. These are too far away from any component do do much good.  I will cut out the grills and cover it with something.  Filters? Mesh? More fans?

Get the power cord outside and gives you control over the pump.

Open Arena runs nice on this.