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Homemade Light Bus 

I was out of large bays, and still needed a place for switches.

So I made this in a floppy bay, since I have 2 floppy bays left over.

This is made to be easy to add lights, with enough wire length to get things connected. It's also made This is best used for lights or fans you need to run at full power.

Lights don't run well at reduced voltages.

No trim-pots or voltage reducing circuitry was used, as those units are for sale all over the web. 

 
Click Me Light buss
lite buss Click Me
It looks like it's upchucking
sub micro switch electrical quick disconnects plugs
 

Template

Click me for the template.

 switchleg
All that was needed was:
  1.  a drill &15/64 Drill bit.
  2. a smaller drill bit for the pilot hole.
  3. A small sharp punch.
  4. Small hammer.
  5. Soft pencil for the layout
  6. Small ruler for the layout.
  7. A small square for the layout.
  8. The ability to do simple math.
  9. A soldering iron.
  10. A multi-meter ( it's nice to have one, but not necessary )
  11. Some sub-micro switches from radio shack. 4 or 5.
  12. Heat shrink tubing.
  13. Stereo Speaker Wire about 18 gage or so.
  14. Quick Disconnects
  15. Wire Strippers with crimp tool

Then just wire in your lights or fans first.  I could have put 5 switches in fairly easy.

The speaker wire is better for switch legs as it's already bonded together.  These switches are rated for 6 amp at 125 volts do they should handle anything a 12 volt system can put out.

  1. Do the layout from centerline to centerline. or use this template
  2. Read up on simple switch legs.
  3. Mark each hole, then use a very sharp punch to keep that drill bit from wandering off center.
  4. Drill the pilot hole, then the 15/64 hole.
  5. Install the switches, throwing away the washers. ( you don't need them ).
  6. Strip each leg of the stereo speaker wires.
  7. Cut to length, about 2-3" and strip the other ends.
  8. Cut and slip on the shrink tubing. This is your only chance to install this.
  9. Install the Quick Disconnects and crimp those babies down really hard. You might double the wire over 1st. Most of these are meant for heavier wire.
  10. Solder the other ends to the switches.
  11. Check the continuity with your multi-meter. (switch on, and check BOTH legs).
  12. NUMBER the Quick Disconnects plugs or suffer the consequences.
  13. Cut those nasty plugs off of your cathode lights, and add the disconnects you bought.
  14. Clean up (wrap stealth, hide) the nasty wiring on your fancy lights.
  15. Install your lights, and pull the wires though the bay opening.
  16. Hook up those numbered Quick Disconnects.
  17. Snap that bad bay boy in place.
  18. Spend endless hours gloating over your incredible technical achievements and playing with your new switches.
  19. Click click click click, Damn, I'm such a Hard Wiring Stud, click click click click.
  20. Write a "How To" and post it on a offensive site.
  • The cost was about $12-15 complete with some left over goodies for future project's.  
  • This is more practical then some stuff you buy off the web.
  • You get the satisfaction of doing it your self.
  • You know no one else has one.
  • It looks cool.

I had this switch bay from Frozencpu.  It's meant for a Lian-Li.

 A good unit but the bay cover did not match the snaps on my Kingwin Case, so the whole thing would fall inside the case when I tried to use it.  $22.50 not counting shipping.  I am saving it for when I get this Lian-Li

Just keep modding, you know you can't help your self.

 See this same "How-To" on GruntVillE.com
Phase 2 of the Light bay Saga  click me to see how to make a switch bay  We are Adding LED's.

I've discovered I really did not need such heavy duty switches.

My newest Bay Controller